A small out-of-place note first. I have been trying to get the cleaned and oiled-up apron back on and simply cannot hold its weight up high enough to get blocks under it properly, or to get holes aligned with bolts. I think I will look for some smallish bottle jacks and try that next, or grow a couple more arms.
Babbitt on the right has its 4 bolts backed out and is lifted off. Looks real clean and the scoring on the journal is very minor. Note to self. Do not even think of trying to repour these. I left the 2 bolt babbitt cap on the far left in place so you could see what it looks like. You will note that around each bolt is a hex head nut, which looks like it might just be a jam nut and have nothing to do with any adjustments, per se.
While here with some space I might as well mention the cone pulley. I am told what I need is an identical and reversed pulley for the motor to turn. I would then have four speeds. I have also found that folks think these older babbitted machines should not run at too high an rpm. Estimates seem to be in the 600 -800 rpm range. So far in class I have found that all of my cutting is below that top. Also, it seems to be recommended that these machines, with their lower speeds, were pre-carbide, and so should be run with hss tools only. Not really sure about that. Will carbide not cut cleanly at slower speeds?
Not a lot to see on the left. The whole cone pulley on it's journal is simply lifted out and what you see in back is the back gear setup. It is pulled forward and engaged to offer a much lower range of speeds across the cone pulley.
Below we have flathers left end. If you look at pics of him whole you will note that a couple of guards have come off in the pics you are seeing on this page. Not a big deal getting them off, so no explanation offered.
Not sure what to say about the below. The red dot is a nut I am unable to remove. All the gears turn when I turn it, and jamming wood into the gears to get some grip doesn't help. Don't want to put too much pressure on anything and will await word from Jim. The yellow dot is a square head bolt that comes out easily. It allows adjustment for engagement of the two lower gears - see the slot?
The blue dot is a knurled handle with an advisory note not to
use it while the lathe is running. The tag with the note is on the now-gone-away guard plate.
Above, the nut from the blue dot on the right is off and this gear slides right out. I am not going to go into which gears engage each other here as I have no idea how it all works.
Above left is the quick change, QC, gear box. The chart shows the various speeds available. These speeds have nothing to do with the speed at which the lathe turns.
The speed adjustment is for the lead screw and feed rod only. Both of these turn the apron gears to give automatic feed for the carriage; the cross slide auto feeds off the feed rod only. The half nut lever, remember that?, engages the lead screw and sets the carriage in motion; fwd and reverse are both available. It 'could' be used to drive the carriage for turning, but it is not. The lead screw drive is saved only for thread cutting. The chart shows the pitch that can be cut at various settings. Carriage drive for turning operations is only done via the more robust feed rod.
The above gear and splined shaft is almost exactly as you see it in the pic of the QC. Yellow and blue and red dots are on the same items in both the two above pics. The spline engages and turns the smaller gear on the QC handle. This, in turn, engages a whole bevy of QC gears up inside the housing. All the gears I am running into are crisp and clean. I do not think I want to take the QC box apart.
Need to hear from Jim now. What is an obvious next step? How do I get that nut off that turns the gears above, or do I want to just leave it alone and do all the cleaning I can as it is and put the guards back on? thanks, don e.
